Tastes of Istria: from fuži and truffles to Malvazija and Teran

Istrian cuisine grew out of rural tradition, a Mediterranean climate and centuries of influences from all around the Adriatic. Its foundations are simple: good olive oil, seasonal vegetables, home-made pasta, meat and fish, and plenty of patience. That is exactly why dishes that sound modest on paper can be unforgettable on the plate.

• Home-made pasta: fuži, pljukanci and krafi

  Fuži are Istria's best-known pasta: small squares of dough rolled diagonally so they look like little quills. They are traditionally served with game, chicken or beef goulash, and with truffles in season. Pljukanci are hand-rolled, elongated pieces of pasta that soak up sauces beautifully, from wild asparagus to seafood. Around Labin you will also come across krafi, filled pasta parcels with cheese, traditionally made for holidays and special occasions.

• Truffles: Istria's underground treasure

  Istria is one of the few places in the world where the white truffle, the most prized truffle of all, grows. The best-known areas are the Mirna river valley and the Motovun forest, and the heart of the truffle story lies in Motovun, Buzet and Livade. White truffle season runs from autumn into winter, while black truffles can be found almost all year round. The simplest way to try them is fuži or pljukanci with truffles, a fritaja (omelette) or truffle shaved over home-made noodles. Inland Istria is roughly an hour's drive from us, which makes for a perfect day trip.

• Pršut, cheese and olive oil

  Istrian pršut (dry-cured ham) differs from other hams in that it is cured with salt and spices and dried in the wind, without smoking. Serve it with sheep's or goat's cheese and home-made bread. None of it is complete without good olive oil: Istrian extra virgin olive oils carry a protected designation of origin and regularly rank among the highest rated in international guides. Taste them the Istrian way, on a piece of bread with a pinch of salt.

• Fish and seafood

  The Labin area looks out over the Kvarner Gulf, so fish and seafood are part of everyday life: grilled fish, squid, mussels and clams cooked buzara-style, seafood risottos and pasta, and the famous Kvarner scampi. The best approach is to ask what came in from the sea that day and follow the recommendation.

• Maneštra

  A hearty Istrian soup-stew of beans, corn and vegetables, ideal for cooler days.

• Supa

  Warm Teran wine with olive oil, pepper and sugar, into which toasted bread is dipped. It is traditionally shared from a single jug called a bukaleta.

• Fritaja with asparagus

  A spring classic made with wild asparagus and eggs.

• Boškarin

  The native Istrian ox, whose meat is served as a delicacy, from carpaccio to goulash.

Istria is one of Croatia's most exciting wine regions. The soils are varied, from red earth along the coast to white and grey soils inland, and winemakers combine family tradition with a modern approach. Three grape varieties define Istria's wine identity.

• Malvazija istarska

  Malvazija is the most widely planted Istrian variety and the region's signature. Young Malvazijas are fresh, fruity and light, perfect with fish and seafood. Aged or skin-macerated Malvazijas are fuller and more complex and pair well with truffles too. If you try only one Istrian wine, make it a Malvazija.

• Teran

  Teran is a native red variety with deep colour and lively acidity. It goes wonderfully with pršut, game, goulash and fuži, and it is the wine used to make supa.

• Muškat momjanski

  Muškat momjanski (Momjan Muscat) comes from the area around Momjan in north-western Istria. It is known for its intensely aromatic, floral bouquet and is most often made as a sweet or semi-dry wine, ideal for ending a meal.

• Istrian wine roads and tastings

  Istria has an extensive network of wine roads with many family wineries open to visitors. Most offer tastings with a cellar tour, often accompanied by pršut, cheese and olive oil. With smaller producers it is best to call ahead and book a time. The official tourism portal istra.hr has more information on wine and olive oil roads.

• Labin market

  A morning trip to the Labin market is the best way to meet local producers. Fresh fruit and vegetables, fish, olive oil, cheese, honey and wine are sold here directly by the people who make them. Pick up something for breakfast on the terrace or for a barbecue dinner by the pool.

• Olive oil tasting

  Istrian olive mills and family groves gladly open their doors to visitors. An olive oil tasting is a real eye-opener: you will learn to recognise the bitterness, pungency and fresh-cut-grass aroma that mark a top extra virgin oil. It is liveliest during the olive harvest in autumn.

• Winery visits and a trip inland

  Combine a visit to one of the Labin wineries with a trip to Motovun or Buzet, where during truffle season you can enjoy truffle dishes or join a truffle hunt. Along the way, stop at small producers of pršut, cheese and honey: native products bought at the source are the loveliest souvenir of Istria.

• Wine & Music Night in Labin

  Labin occasionally hosts wine and music evenings in the old town featuring local winemakers. Check the event calendar of the Labin-Rabac Tourist Board.